Posts mit dem Label Fingerless Gloves werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen
Posts mit dem Label Fingerless Gloves werden angezeigt. Alle Posts anzeigen

Freitag, 3. November 2023

Railroad Crossing Fingerless Gloves

I love knitting fingerless gloves. They usually are a relatively small project, but they can have quite fun and interesting constructions. These ones are designed in triangles around the thumb. The design makes use of the garter stitch feature that one ridge has about the same width and height. The knitting directions changes a few times, so it is a great way to display some self striping sock yarn.

I called them Railroad Crossing Fingerless Gloves because the flat piece reminded me of the traffic sign.


 

The knitting pattern is available via






The pattern PDF is 20 pages long and contains 

  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece in one size only – including 19 in-process photos
  • an explanation (plus schematic) of the construction,
  • short photo tutorials for the following techniques
    • crochet CO (at the edge of a knitted piece)
    • kbf – knit through back and front of a stitch, a stitch that is symmetrical to a kfb
    • german short rows (with double-stitches) and how to work the resulting double-stitches 
    • pick up and knit 
    • pick up and connect, i.e. picking up a stitch and connecting it in a 90 degree angle to your knitting
This is NOT a beginner pattern.


Size and Gauge

To get a certain variation in size I knitted not only in 3mm needles (see picture on the right, top pair of mitts), but also one pair with 2.5 mm needles (see picture on the right, bottom pair of mitts):

  • With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece measures 19 cm in height, with a circumference of 15.5 cm at the top and 19 cm at the bottom.
  • With 2.5 mm needles  28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with  unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures 16.5 cm in height, with a circumference of 14.5 cm at the top and 17 cm at the bottom.




To knit these fingerless gloves you need the following materials

  • 150 meters of fingering weight yarn weight yarn 
    • the pink-yellow ones (title picture) are knitted in Sockenwolle 4-fach Citron by Daniela's Wolltopf (colorway Neolino) - here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page
    • the green/brown/azure blue ones (smaller ones in picture displaying the different sizes) are knitted in Regia 4-ply (Regia Spring Fling Color, colorway 3812) 
    • the sky blue/light green ones with a bit of red and purple (see picture showing different views below) in knitted with Zwerger Opal Gutenachtgeschichten 4-ply (colorway Das Mädchen und der Blumendrache) - here's a link to the yarn's Ravelry page
  • 3 mm knitting needles – I used 80 cm circulars as main needles to knit the thumb
  • two additional 3mm knitting needles – I used dpns to knit the panels around the thumb
  • a crochet hook that is a bit bigger than the knitting needles (I used a 4 mm hook) 
  • a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends

Different views (left: before sewing up, middle: back of hand, right: palm)


Samstag, 23. September 2023

Rail Fence Fingerless Gloves

The inspiration for these mitts comes from a quilt pattern I saw on social media. I asked myself whether it would be possible to arrange similar panels around the thumb to created a pair of fingerless gloves. After a few tries, it worked. In fact, you could actually view it as one big entrelac piece around a thumb.

The name of quilt pattern that first inspired me is Rail Fence. However, the similarity is only visible if you look at the an unseamed mitt laid out flat. Because of the changes in knitting direction, this is a great way to showcase your self-striping yarn. 


This knitting pattern is available via




The pattern PDF is 14 pages long and contains

  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting this piece in one size only – including 15 in-process photos
  • an explanation (plus schematic) of the construction, and explanations how to make them bigger or smaller
  • short photo tutorials for the following techniques
    • crochet CO (at the edge of a knitted piece)
    • kbf – knit through back and front of a stitch, a stitch that is symmetrical to a kfb
    • short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps
    • pick up and knit, pick up and purl
    • pick up and connect, i.e. picking up a stitch and connecting it in a 90 degree angle to your knitting

The finished piece measures 17 cm in height and about 17 cm in circumference (top and bottom and about a cm more at its widest point. The picture on the right shows one finished mitt and one just before sewing up the side seams.

As to gauge, in garter stitch 12 stitches gave 5 cm in width, and 12 ridges (24 rows) 5 cm in height – this was measured on an unblocked piece.




To knit these mitts you need the following materials:
  • 130 meters of fingering weight yarn weight yarn - I used self-striping:
    • for the ones in the title picture I used Zwerger Opal Rainforest, Colorway 9902
    • the pair on the pictures below was knitted with Zwerger Opal Blütenpracht, Colorway 54, Mohn Poppy
  • 3 mm knitting needles – I used 80 cm circulars as main needles
  • two additional 3mm knitting needles – I used dpns
  • a crochet hook that is a bit bigger than the knitting needles (I used a 4 mm hook)  
  • a tapestry needle – for grafting and to weave in ends



Donnerstag, 21. April 2022

Pieces of Eight Mitts in Dutch - Gratis Breipatroon

Carolien (or mijikke on Ravelry) has provided a Dutch translation of the Pieces of Eight Mitts. Hartelijk bedankt!

The Dutch translation can be found here.

The original English version is available here - as well as links to German and Danish translations.



A list of all translations of my patterns can be found in this blogpost.

Samstag, 16. April 2022

Mauerblümchen

Here's another pattern for fingerless gloves - again knitted flat and in garter stitch. 

These fingerless gloves are knitted flat and in garter stitch. They are shaped with short rows around a point at the outer wrist, the thumb is created one half at a time (with a short knitted CO and a BO). The flower pattern is done in intarsia technique. The project starts with a provisional cast on and finishes with grafting in garter stitch. In the end the side seams are sewn up.

Since this is an intarsia project with three colours that also uses short rows, it can be quite fiddly.  It is NOT a beginner pattern.

As to the name, "Mauerblümchen" is the German word for wall flower - it ties in with my Blümchen Fingerless Gloves that have a flower motive around the thumb.

The knitting pattern in available via




The pattern PDF is 13 pages long and contains 

  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting a mitt in one size (slight adjustments can be made by using a different needle size) – including nine in-process photos  
  • a pattern chart
  • short photo tutorials for the following techniques
    • provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
    • grafting in garter stitch
    • short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps 
    • intarsia knitting and weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)
    • knitted CO 



Gauge and Size
I knitted two pairs – one with 2.5 mm needles and one with 3 mm needles – see photo below.
With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece knitted with 2.5 mm needles is about 17 - 18 cm high (at it's highest point) and about 17 cm in diameter (without just below the thumb). 
With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with  unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures about 19 - 20 cm in height and about 19 cm in diameter (just below the thumb).
However, the pieces are all in garter stitch, so they are quite stretchy.


To knit a pair of these fingerless gloves you need the following materials:
  • a total of 30 to 35 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colors:
    • about 12 grams per mitt for C1 (background color)
    • about 4 grams per mitt for C2 (flower color)
  • 2.5 mm or 3 mm knitting needles (or another needle that gives you the gauge) – straight or circulars
  • scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO
  • a tapestry needles for grafting, sewing and to weave in ends


Donnerstag, 10. März 2022

Ripple Fingerless Gloves

Fingerless gloves are my favorite accessory – there are so many varieties and ways to construct them.

The ones here are knitted flat and in garter stitch with a wave pattern. One edge of the flat row is the thumb around which the mitt shaped in short rows. It starts with a provisional cast on and ends with a row of grafting in garter stitch. The wavy patternis created with increases and decreases.

This is NOT a beginner pattern.


The knitting pattern is available via



The pattern PDF is 12 pages long contains 

  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting a mitt in one size (slight adjustments can be made by using a different needle size)– including six photos of the different stages  
  • a full pattern chart
  • short photo tutorials for the following techniques:
    • provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
    • grafting in garter stitch
    • short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps 


Gauge and Size

I knitted pairs in two needle sizes – with 2.5 mm needles and with 3 mm needles – see photo below:
  • With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece knitted with 2.5 mm needles is about 19 cm high (at it's highest point) and about 17 cm in diameter (without just below the thumb). 
  • With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with  unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures about 20 cm in height and about 19 cm in diameter (just below the thumb).

To knit a pair of these fingerless gloves you need:
  • a total of about 35 to 40 grams of fingering weight yarn - I used 
  • 2.5 mm or 3 mm knitting needles (or another needle that gives you the gauge) – straight or circulars
  • scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO
  • 10 stitch markers – 4 of which removable  
  • a tapestry needles for grafting and to weave in ends
One mitt finished - one mitt needs to be sewn up


Freitag, 5. November 2021

Blümchen Fingerless Gloves

I love fingerless gloves. They are my favorite accessory – and also my favorite piece to knit because they offer so many varieties of constructing them. These are knitted flat and in garter stitch. One edge of the row is the thumb and the mitt shaped around it in short rows. The flower pattern is done in intarsia technique. The piece starts with a provisional CO and is finished by grafting in garter stitch. After grafting the side seams are sewn up.

Since this is an intarsia project with three colours that also uses short rows, it can be quite fiddly. It is NOT a beginner pattern.




The pattern is available via 



The pattern PDF is 15 pages long and contains

  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting a glove in one size (see below) – including eight photos of the different stages
  • pattern chart
  • short photo tutorials for the following techniques
    • provisional CO with a crochet hook and how to undo it
    • grafting in garter stitch
    • short rows with wrap and turn and picking up the wraps 
    • intarsia knitting 
    • weaving in yarn while carrying it (backwards and forwards)
  • step-by-step explanations with photos of
    • undoing the provisional CO in this pattern (i.e. catching stitches in different colours)
    • grafting with colour changes


Gauge and Size(s)
I knitted two pairs – one with 2.5 mm needles and one with 3 mm needles:
  • With 2.5 mm needles 28 ridges (56 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 25 sts gave 10 cm in width (with an unblocked swatch, since I didn't block the mitts). The finished piece knitted with 2.5 mm needles is about 18 cm high (at it's highest point) and about 16 cm in diameter (without just below the thumb). 
  • With 3 mm needles 26 ridges (53 garter stitch rows) gave me 10 cm in height and 23 sts gave 10 cm in width (also with  unblocked swatch). The finished piece measures about 20 cm in height and about 18 cm in diameter (just below the thumb).
However, the pieces are all in garter stitch, so they are quite stretchy.
The picture below shows a comparison of the two "sizes".



To knit a pair of these fingerless gloves you need the following materials
  • Fingering weight yarn in three colors – I used a total about 35 to 40 grams (or 150 to 170 metres):
    • about 20 grams of C1 (green in the title picture)
    • about 14 grams of C2 (white in the title picture)
    • about 4 grams of C3 (pink in the title picture)
  • 2.5 mm or 3 mm knitting needles – straight or circulars (or another needle that gives you the gauge) 
  • scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO
  • 2 removable stitch markers 
  • two tapestry needles for grafting and to weave in ends
Just before finishing the 2nd mitt :)


Samstag, 20. Februar 2021

Slightly Slanted Fingerless Gloves

I like fingerless gloves – and I like knitting  them a bit different from the standard loom-style construction. This usually leads to special patterns that are particularly attractive when used with  some self-striping yarn. Plus it may lead to mitts, where you only have to weave in  two ends per mitt – one of my personal obsessions :)  

This is the case with these fingerless gloves. They are knitted in one piece – starting with a garter stitch ribbing knitted sideways and continued with a main part that is knitted (slightly) on the bias. The upper ribbing is also in garter stitch to level the bias, and finally the thumb part is added. These gloves are (nearly) knitted in knit stitch only –  the only exception are a few increases and decreases for the thumb gusset and k1p1-ribbing at the thumb.









You can buy the pattern PDF via


The pattern PDF is 10 pages long and contains

  • a schematic how the mitts are constructed
  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting these fingerless gloves in one size  – including 9 in-process photos of the gloves in different stages
  • explanations how to adapt the pattern to other sizes
  • short photo tutorials of the following techniques: 
    • provisional cast-on and how to undo it, 
    • three-needle bind-off, 
    • picking up and knitting stitches from the slanted edge of your knitting, 
    • picking up stitches from gaps (e.g. necessary after changes in direction)

Size
The mitts are 19 cm high and have a circumference of 17 cm at the wrist edge and of 16 cm at the fingers


To knit this pattern the following techniques are used
  • provisional CO and undoing it
  • three needle BO
  • picking up stitches from the edge of a knitted piece
  • picking up stitches from a gap (e.g. when doing a thumb gusset)
For all these techniques/skills, the pattern PDF contains photo tutorials. 


Materials
The following materials are necessary to knit these fingerless gloves:
  • about 35 grams of fingering weight yarn, I used 
  • 3mm needles, for fingerless gloves such as these, I tend to switch between dpns and circulars, but it's possible to use either of them
  • one surplus knitting needle (in a similar size, preferably also 3mm) 
  • a stitch holder for the thumb stitches (scrap yarn works well, too)
  • 5 stitch markers - one of them removable
  • scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional COs
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends


Freitag, 13. November 2020

Perpendicularity Mitts

 I love fingerless gloves. They are my favorite accessory – and knitting project. They are fun to knit and wear, and on top of that  they are so versatile – especially in terms of construction, which shows off nicely, if you use variegated or self-striping yarn. 

These mitts are constructed in seven parts, each of which either starting with a provisional CO or by picking up stitches from the edge, and some are finished by a three-needle BO (three times) and (the last one) by grafting in garter stitch. 

This means that the mitts are knitted in one piece each – so you only have to weave in two ends for each glove. 






The pattern is available on



This pattern PDF is 13 pages long and contains 

  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting these fingerless gloves in one size – including 21 photos of the different stages
  • explanations how to adapt the pattern to other sizes
  • a schematic how the mitts are constructed
  • short photo tutorials of the following techniques:
    • provisional cast-on and how to undo it
    • three-needle bind-off
    • picking up and knitting stitches from the edge of your knitting
    • picking up stitches from gaps (e.g. necessary after changes in direction)
    • short rows with wrap and turn 
    • grafting in garter stitch


To knit these fingerless gloves you need the following materials:
  • about 35 to 40 grams of fingering weight yarn 
  • 3mm needles, for fingerless gloves such as these, I tend to switch between dpns and circulars, but it's possible to use either of them
  • one surplus knitting needle (of the same size (3mm))
  • scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional COs
  • a stitch holder for the thumb stitches (scrap yarn works well, too)
  • 3 stitch markers and a tapestry needle to weave in ends

Samstag, 12. September 2020

Rainbow Mitts

It's been a while since I published the last fingerless glove pattern (to be precise, it was published in May 2018, my Color Explosion Mitts). However, fingerless gloves are my favorite kind of knitted items because they are so versatile - especially in terms of construction - and this is great when using variegated yarn.

And this is exactly what I did for these fingerless gloves; they are knitted in different directions and in one piece – so you only have to weave in two ends for each glove.








The pattern is available 

The PDF is 10 pages long and contains:
  • a schematic how the mitts are constructed
  • written row-by-row instructions for knitting these fingerless gloves (including 8 photos of the different stages) for one size (21 cm high with a circumference of 17 cm at the wrist edge and of 16 cm at the fingers)
  • explanations how to adapt the pattern to other sizes
  • short photo tutorials of the following techniques
    • provisional cast on (with a crochet hook) and how to undo it
    • three-needle bind-of
    • picking up and knitting stitches from the edge of your knitting
    • picking up stitches from gaps (e.g. necessary when changing knitting direction(
    • short rows with shadow wraps



To knit this pattern the following techniques are used:
  • provisional CO and how to undo it
  • three needle BO
  • picking up stitches from the edge of a knitted piece
  • short rows with shadow wraps
  • picking up stitches from a gap (e.g. when doing a thumb gusset)
For all these techniques/skills, the pattern PDF contains photo tutorials. 


You need the following materials to knit these fingerless mitts
  • about 35 to 40 grams of fingering weight yarn (I used Schoeller Esslinger Wolle, Sockenwolle, Color 0008 "Regenbogen-bunt" - here's the link to the yarn's Ravelry page)
  • 3mm needles, for fingerless gloves such as these, I tend to switch between dpns and circulars, but it's possible to use either of them
  • in case you only use circulars, you'll a third knitting needle in a similar size for the three-needle BO, 
  • a stitch holder for the thumb stitches (scrap yarn works well, too)
  • 2 stitch markers
  • scrap yarn and a crochet hook (about 3mm) for the provisional CO
  • a tapestry needle to weave in ends


Samstag, 24. November 2018

Stjernevanter - Zimtsterne Fingerless Gloves in Danish

Marianne Holmen from strikkeglad.dk has written a Danish translation of the Zimtsterne Fingerless Gloves pattern. Thank you very much or rather "mange tak"!
Here is a link to the Danish version of this pattern on strikkeglad.dk.
The original (English) version can be found here.


A list of all translated versions of my patterns can be found in this blogpost.






Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Freitag, 8. Juni 2018

Fingerless Gloves Worked Flat

If you've read some of the posts from this blog you know that I like constructions a bit out of the ordinary - especially when knitting fingerless gloves.

In this blogpost I've compiled a list of fingerless gloves that are worked flat, which means that they don't have the loom construction of other fingerless gloves.




The photos above only show patterns from my blog, but further below I have listed quite a few other interesting patterns that I found on Ravelry and that I liked. Here are the (free!) patterns shown above:
  1. Helix Mitts: Fingerless gloves knitted in a ten-stitch wide strip that winds around the hand.
  2. Starburst Mitts: These mitts use short rows to form a circle around the thumb.
  3. Xmas Star: Similar construction as the Starburst Mitts, but in two colors with an intarsia pattern to form a star around the thumb.
  4. Serpentina Mitts: Knitted sideways in simple stockinette stitch, these mitts are decorated with random surface crochet
  5. Sparkler Mitts: The same construction as the Starburst Mitts, but in crochet.
  6. Inclination Wrist Warmers: Knitted slanted - all in garter stitch. 
  7. Double Helix Mitts: Similar to the Helix Mitts, but knitted in two 8-stitch wide strips.
  8. Color Explosion Mitts: The opposite construction to my Starburst Mitts, i.e. the short rows don't focus around the thumb but around a point close to the outer wrist.
Other patterns that use interesting techniques and can be found on Ravelry are the following (patterns not pictured above). I have not tried to knit or crochet any of them, but I did like the design when I saw them on Ravelry:
And if that's not enough, here's a list of all fingerless gloves patterns that have the "knitted flat" attribute (free and paid) - you must be logged in to Ravelry for access.

Mittwoch, 2. Mai 2018

Color Explosion Mitts

I had the idea for these fingerless gloves in the summer of 2014, but I couldn't make it work. During the last Xmas holidays I tried it once again - this time with different yarn and more experience with short rows under my belt. However, I still knitted two mitts that didn't quite fit and had to be frogged - but the third try went well enough. Now I really like the look of them.
These fingerless gloves are knitted flat and each in one piece. They use short rows for shaping
Knitted flat, in one piece each, makes use of short rows for shaping. They are great for variegated yarn with a  really short color gradient
They are sort of the opposite construction to my Starburst Mitts, i.e. the short rows don't focus around the thumb but around a point close to the outer wrist.


Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and son on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.






Materials
  • about 30 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • three 2.5mm needles - I used short dpns, but you can use straight or circulars as well
  • scrap yarn for provisional CO
  • two removable stitch holders (e.g. safety pins)
  • a stitch holder or long safety pin
  • tapestry needle for grafting and to weave in ends


Techniques
  • Provisional CO: My favorite method for a provision CO is the crochet provisional CO - it is shown in this Youtube video by New Stitch a Day.
  • Short rows with wrap and turn (w+t) - as shown in this YouTube video by Very Pink Knits.
  • Three Needle Bind Offhttps://youtu.be/Ph93jWSzTa0
  • Grafting in Garter Stitch: A technique to get an invisible (knitted) seam - this technique is shown in this YouTube Video by knittinghelp.com.
  • Picking up stitches from the edge and joining as you go: to attach the first stitch of one row to the edge stitch of the row opposite, pick up the selvedge stitch from the opposite side (illustration 1), slip the first stitch of the new row as if to purl (with yarn in front, illustration 2), bring the yarn backwards, reinsert the left needle into the last 2 loops and knit them together (like doing a ssk, illustration 3); this will be called ssk+c (ssk and connect) in this pattern - a similar method is shown in this video: http://youtu.be/3zPXZ4cu66Q
    Alternatively, you can just do a slip stitch edge in sections F and G and sew it to the edge of sections C and B in the end.
ssk+c illustrations (click to enlarge)

Gauge and Size
The finished fingerless gloves (as knitted by me) measure about 17 cm in height, 15 cm in circumference at the top, and about 18 cm at the bottom.
11 sts gave 4 cm in width and 9 ridges (i.e. 18 garter stitch rows) 3 cm in height.

The pattern is given in one size only, but there is some advice on how to adapt it to different sizes.



Construction

One gloves is knitted flat in 8 sections (called sections A to H). To get the effect of ... there will be short rows varying in length. To achieve the shape there will be increases or decreases close to the outer edge or - for the thumb - another shorter provisional CO and leaving stitches on a stitch marker will be used.
You start out with a short provisional cast on and continue with short rows while increasing on the edge (section A), in section B there are decreases, in section C increases again as well as newly cast on stitches as well as putting stitches on the stitch holder when half of the thumb is finished. In section D there will be decreases again. From section E on, you will basically knit sections D to H backwards, i.e. increases will be substituted with decreases and vice versa.
In sections F and G you will attach the first stitch of each row to the edge stitch of the corresponding row of sections C and B. In section F you will also use the stitches from the stitch holder to complete the thumb. To finish the thumb completely, a short three-needle bind off is used before continuing with section F. After finishing section H, you've completed a whole circle now and two rows of live stitches are closed by grafting in garter stitch.


Instructions

Section A
With scrap yarn do a provsional CO of 14 sts
Row A0: k all
Ridge A1: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge A2: sl1, k8, w+t, k7, kfb, k1 [now there are 15 sts on your needles, subsequently if the stitch count changes, I will give the new stitch count at the end of the row in square brackets, the number of stitches on your needles - not the number of stitches you just knitted]
Ridge A3: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge A4: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge A5: sl1, k8, w+t, k7, kfb, k1 [16 sts]
Ridge A6: sl1, k11, w+t, k12
Ridge A7: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge A8: sl1, k13, w+t, k12, kfb, k1 [17 sts]
Ridge A9: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge A10: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge A11: sl1, k13, w+t, k12, kfb, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge A12: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge A13: sl1, k13, w+t, k12, kfb, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge A14: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge A15: sl1, k5, w+t, k4, kfb, k1 [20 sts] - place a removable stitchmarker into the first stitch of the last ridge (called stitch marker A)

Section B
Ridge B1: sl1, k19, turn, sl1, k19; place stitch marker in first stitch on needle (this marker will be called marker A)
Ridge B2: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge B3: sl1, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge B4: sl1, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge B5: sl1, k14, w+t, k12, ssk, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge B6: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge B7: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge B8: sl1, k15, w+t, k13, ssk, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge B9: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge B10: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge B11: sl1, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge B12: sl1, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge B13: sl1, k7, w+t, k8

Section C
Ridge C1: sl1, k17, turn, sl1, k17
Ridge C2: sl1, k12, w+t, k13
Ridge C3: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge C4: sl1, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge C5: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge C6: sl1, k5, w+t, k4, kfb, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge C7: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge C8: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge C9: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge C10: sl1, k12, w+t, k11, kfb, k1 [20 sts]
Ridge C11: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge C12: sl1, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge C13: sl1, k12, w+t, k11, kfb, k1 [21 sts]
Ridge C14: sl1, k11, w+t, k12
Ridge C15: sl1, k9, w+t, k8, kfb, k1 [22 sts]
Ridge C16: sl1, k6, w+t, k7; provisionally CO 8 sts, and continue to knit these 8 sts - see photos 1 and 2 in illustrations A below [30 sts]
Ridge C17: sl1, k6, ktbl, ktbl, k8, w+t, k17
Ridge C18: sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge C19: sl1, k14, w+t, k13, kfb, k1 [31 sts]
Ridge C20: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge C21: sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge C22: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge C23: sl1, k21, w+t, k22
Ridge C24: sl1, k18, w+t, k12 - and put the last 7 sts on a stitch holder (see photo 3 in illustration A below) [24 sts]
Ridge C25: sl1, k6, w+t, k5, kfb, k1 [25 sts]
Ridge C26: sl1, k16, w+t, k15, kfb, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge C27: sl1, k7, w+t, k6, kfb, k1 [27 sts]
Ridge C28: sl1, k21, w+t, k20, kfb, k1 [28 sts]  - place a removable stitchmarker into the first stitch of the last ridge (called stitch marker B)
Illustrations A (click to enlarge)

Section D

Ridge D1: sl1, k27, turn, sl1, k27, place stitch marker in first stitch on needle (this marker will be called marker B)
Ridge D2: sl1, k4, w+t, k2, ssk, k1 [27 sts]
Ridge D3: sl1, k7, w+t, k5, ssk, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge D4: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge D5: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge D6: sl1, k15, w+t, k13, ssk, k1 [25 sts]
Ridge D7: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge D8: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge D9: sl1, k22, w+t, k23
Ridge D10: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge D11: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge D12: sl1, k18, w+t, k16, ssk, k1 [24 sts]
Ridge D13: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge D14: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge D15: sl1, k14, w+t, k15

Ridge D16: sl1, k23, pick up 2 sts from the space between the last st and the first st of the very first row, turn, sl1, ssk, k23 (this ensures that there won't be a hole in the middle of the mitt, see photo 4 of illustrations A) [25 sts]

Section E
Ridge E1: sl1, k14, w+t, k15
Ridge E2: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge E3: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge E4: sl1, k18, w+t, k17, kfb, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge E5: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge E6: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge E7: sl1, k24, w+t, ssk, k22 [25 sts] (the ssk evens out the 2nd of the stitches that was picked up at the end of section D)
Ridge E8: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge E9: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge E10: sl1, k15, w+t, k14, kfb, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge E11: sl1, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge E12: sl1, k20, w+t, k21
Ridge E13: sl1, k7, w+t, k6, kfb, k1 [27 sts]
Ridge E14: sl1, k4, w+t, k3, kfb, k1 [28 sts]
Ridge E15: sl1, k27, turn, sl1, k27

Section F
Ridge F1: sl1, k21, w+t, k19, ssk, k1 [27 sts]
Now your piece will look similar to photo 5 of illustrations B below. To attach the edges of sections C and B to F and G, you need to fold the piece over as shown in photo 6 of illustrations B. The first stitch to pick up from the opposite edge is the stitch just below marker B - or the edge stitch of ridge C28. In the subsequent rows, always connect to the next stitch below.
When you're connecting the two sides like this, there will be a visible ridge - however, later the piece will be turned inside out and this ridge will be on the inside of the mitt.

Ridge F2: ssk+c (i.e. connect the first st of your working row to the edge stitch of row C28), k7, w+t, k5, ssk, k1 [26 sts]
Ridge F3: ssk+c (i.e. connect to the next edge stitch of section C, i.e. the edge st of row C27), k16, w+t, k14, ssk, k1 [25 sts]
Ridge F4: ssk+c (i.e. connect to the next edge stitch of section C, i.e. the edge st of row C26), k6, w+t, k4, ssk, k1 [24sts]
Ridge F5: ssk+c, k18, w+t, k19 - put the 7 sts from the stitch holder on your needles and continue knitting these 7 sts (see photo 7 in illustration B below) [31 sts]
Ridge F6: sl1, k21, w+t, k22
Ridge F7: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F8: sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge F9: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge F10: sl1, k14, w+t, k12, ssk, k1 [30 sts]
Ridge F11:  sl1, k23, w+t, k24
Ridge F12: sl1, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F13: put the 8 sts from the provisional CO (of section C) on a needle and do a three needle BO of 8 stitches, you're connecting the lower edge of the thumb of both sides (see photo 8 of illustration below), and continue knitting:  k6, w+t, k7 [22 sts]
Ridge F14: ssk+c, k9, w+t, k7, ssk, k1 [21 sts]
Ridge F15: ssk+c, k11, w+t, k12
Ridge F16: ssk+c, k12, w+t, k10, ssk, k1 [20 sts]
Ridge F17: ssk+c, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge F18: ssk+c, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge F19: ssk+c, k12, w+t, k10, ssk, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge F20: ssk+c, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge F21: ssk+c, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F22: ssk+c, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge F23: ssk+c, k5, w+t, k3, ssk, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge F24: ssk+c, k16, w+t, k17
Ridge F25: ssk+c, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge F26: ssk+c, k8, w+t, k9
Ridge F27: ssk+c, k12, w+t, k13
Ridge F28: ssk+c, k17, turn, sl1, k17
Illustrations B (click to enlarge)
Section G
Ridge G1: ssk+c, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge G2: ssk+c, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge G3: ssk+c, k15, w+t, k16
Ridge G4: ssk+c, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge G5: ssk+c, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge G6: ssk+c, k15, w+t, k14, kfb, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge G7: ssk+c, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge G8: ssk+c, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge G9: ssk+c, k14, w+t, k13, kfb, k1 [20 sts]
Ridge G10: ssk+c, k3, w+t, k4
Ridge G11: ssk+c, k9, w+t, k10
Ridge G12: ssk+c, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge G13: ssk+c, k19, turn, sl1, k 19 (on the side of section B, you should've reached marker A)

Section H
Ridge H1: sl1, k5, w+t, k3, ssk, k1 [19 sts]
Ridge H2: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge H3: sl1, k13, w+t, k11, ssk, k1 [18 sts]
Ridge H4: sl1, k7, w+t, k8
Ridge H5: sl1, k14, w+t, k12, ssk, k1 [17 sts]
Ridge H6: sl1, k10, w+t, k11
Ridge H7: sl1, k6, w+t, k7
Ridge H8: sl1, k12, w+t, k10, ssk, k1 [16 sts]
Ridge H9: sl1, k4, w+t, k5
Ridge H10: sl1, k13, w+t, k14
Ridge H11: sl1, k9, w+t, k7, ssk, k1 [16 sts]
Ridge H12: sl1, k5, w+t, k6
Ridge H13: sl1, k14, w+t, k15
Ridge H14: sl1, k8, w+t, k6, ssk, k1 [15 sts]
Ridge H15: sl1, k10, w+t, k11

Put the stitches of the provisional CO of section A on a needle (this will give you only 14 sts), use the tail of your CO to pick up one more stitch from the selvedge right in the middle of the mitts (similar to what you did at the end of section D). Now you have 15 sts on both needles - and the hole in the middle will be closed a bit.

Graft both sides together in garter stitch.
Use the tail to sew the hole in the middle closed and weave in ends.

Turn mitt right sides out.
Make two - and block them gently.



How to Adapt the Pattern to Different Hand Sizes

To change height and width of these gloves you obviously need to adjust the number of stitches you cast on ... but, a change in the number of stitches also leads to other changes as well, i.e. one stitch more, usually means one short row more in each section.
If you knit a few stitches more you need to increase the number of (short) rows per section as well - by the same count. E.g. (with the gauge I had) if you want to add about 2 cm to the height and circumference of the mitts, you need to CO 3 sts (3 sts roughly equal 1 cm, and this centimeter is added twice - once at the lower edge (in sections A and H) and once at the top (sections D and E) - this also goes for the circumference, if you add 3 sts, they add 1 cm to the width in sections B and C, and also 1 cm in sections F and G). To balance this you need to knit short row 3 ridges more in each section.
I'd advise to add these short row ridges randomly inbetween the other ridges of each section - and to vary the lenght of these short row ridges. E.g. if the ridge before was rather short (less than 10 sts long), I'd add a longer short row ridge, e.g. 20 sts long - making sure that you don't put one w+t directly above another of a previous ridge. This ensures an even distribution of short rows.