Dienstag, 4. Februar 2014

Winding Mitts

Free Knitting Pattern: Windings MittsThese "garter stitch only" mitts are
constructed from two rhomboids - the thumb panel and a main part.
Short row triangles in wind their way around your wrists creating a unique pattern.





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This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.


Materials:
  • A total of 40 grams of fingering weight yarn in two colours
    - Main Colour (MC) – white on the photo
    - Contrast Colour (CC) – dark on the photo
  • 3mm needles (straight needles for thumb panel and main part – dpns for finishing the thumbs)
  • Stitch holders or scrap yarn
  • Tapestry needle

Techniques or Abbreviations:
  • Grafting in Garter Stitch: Cut the yarn but leave a long enough tail (I usually take about 5 to 6 times the length of the seam). Put the yarn on a tapestry needle. For setting up insert tapestry needle purlwise into the first stitch - first on the front needle, then on the back needle. * Now insert the needle knitwise into the first stitch on the front needle and slip the stitch, then insert it purlwise in the next stitch but leave that on the needle. Do the same on the back needle - then repeat from * until there are no more stitches on your needles.
    If my explanation is too wordy, I found a video that shows it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BAEIogIli6o
The picture below shows the general construction of the mitts. As you can see, left hand mitt and right hand mitt are mirror inverted. That's why there will be two different descriptions - one for each mitt.


Left mitt (with left-leaning thumb panel)


Thumb panel

With Main Colour CO9
R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
R4 (RS): sl1 ssk k4 kfb k1
Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

Now the thumb increases start: In short,  you make 12 increases (6 on each side of the thumb) distributed over 14 rows, while keeping up the increases and decreases at the sides. But, here it is in detail:

R53: s1 k1 place marker k2 place marker k to end
R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R55: sl1 k to end
R56: sl1 ssk,  k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R58: s1 k to end
R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R60: sl1, ssk, k to last 2 sts before end, kfb, k1
R61: sl1, k to end
R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R63: sl1, k to end
R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 ssk, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 2 sts before end, kfb k1
R65: sl1, k to end
R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
R68: s1 ssk k4 kfb k1
R69-71: sl1 k to end
Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle

Still with MC, pick up 47 stitches from the left side of the thumb panel, you have now  48 stitches on your needle, your working yarn is now on the lower edge of the mitt

Main part

With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

Row 1 (CC, RS): kfb, k to 2 sts before end, k2tog (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k31 w+t
Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k15 w+t
Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 2 sts before end, k2tog
Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
Row 9 (MC, RS): kfb, k31 w+t
Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
Row 11 (MC, RS): k17, w+t
Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6.) After a few repeats your mitt should look as shown in the photo.


With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


Thumb

Move the thumb stitches from the stitch holder to two dpns. Pick up and knit 4 stitches from above the thumb gusset. Knit the stitches that were on the stitch holders up until the last stitch. p2tog (this closes a potential the gap between the stitches from the stitch holder and the newly picked up stitches), p2, p2tog (to close the gap on the other side of the thumb). Purl to the end of round.

Round 3: k
Round 4: p

Repeat until 3 more times (or until the thumb is long enough). Bind off.

Weave in ends.


Right Mitt (with right-leaning thumb panel)

Basically, this mitt is the mirror image of its partner, so increases and decreases (especially at the edges) are exchanged. Furthermore, the thumb is started at a different point. But here are the instructions in detail. The parts that differ from the left mitt have been underlined.

Thumb Panel

With Main Colour CO9
R1 – R3: sl1 k to end
R4 (RS): s1 kfb k4 k2tog k1
Repeat R1 – R4 a total of 13 times

The thumb increases are similar to the ones on the other mitt - the only difference is the starting point.

R53: s1 k4, place marker, k2, place marker, k to end
R54 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R55: sl1 k to end
R56:  s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1

R57 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to endR58: s1 k to end
R59 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R60: s1 kfb, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, k1
R61: sl1, k to end
R62 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end
R63: sl1, k to end
R64 (thumb increase row): sl1 kfb, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to stitch before marker kfb, sm, k to 3 sts before end, k2tog, k1
R65: sl1, k to end
R66 (thumb increase row): sl1, k to marker, sm, kfb, k to 1 st before marker, kfb, sm, k to end

R67: sl1, k to marker, put the 14 sts between the markers on stitch holders or scrap yarn, remove markers, CO2 (with backwards loop CO), k to end (there should be 9 stitches on your needle)
R68: s1 kfb, k4, k2tog, k1
R69-71: sl1 k to end
Repeat R68 – 71 five more times, then once more R68 and R69
R94 BO until the last stitch, keep that stitch on your needle


Free Knitting Pattern: Windings Mitts
Main part

With MC knit one row (WS) – connect CC

Row 1 (CC, RS): ssk, k to 1 st before end, kfb (from the second time on, pick up all wraps from row 12)
Row 2 (CC, WS): sl1 k33 w+t
Row 3 (CC, RS): k to end
Row 4 (CC, WS): sl1 k17 w+t
Row 5 (CC, RS): k to 1 sts before end, kfb
Row 6 (CC, WS): sl1 k to end, picking up all wraps
Row 7 (MC, RS): k to end
Row 8 (MC, WS): sl1 k to end
Row 9 (MC, RS): ssk, 28 w+t
Row 10 (MC, WS): k to end
Row 11 (MC, RS): k13, w+t
Row 12 (MC, WS): k to end

Repeat rows 1 to 12 a total of 6 times, then repeat rows 1 to 6 once more. (Or until the mitt fits around your hand - make sure to end with row 6)

With MC k one row. Cut yarn MC leaving a tail long enough for grafting (I usually leave 4-5 times the length of my knitting). Cut CC.

With another needle and without working yarn pick up 48 stitches from the right hand side of the thumb panel.

Graft both sides together with garter stitch.


Finish the thumb as described for the left hand mitt.

Free Knitting Pattern: Windings Mitts

Kommentare:

  1. Yes these are brilliant! Can th epage be printed?

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    1. Thank you. Currently, I don't provide PDFs, but you can use Printfriendly (http://www.printfriendly.com) - here you also can decide which image to include etc.

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