Freitag, 21. Februar 2014

Pieces of Eight Mitts

It was a topological challenge for me to get these mitts right. They are knitted in one piece (no yarn cutting involved) beginning at the thumb. The “Eight”-Shape is achieved by increasing in the first part of a row, and decreasing in the second part. Please note, that the mitts are mirror inverted – to achieve this, the one mitt is turned inside out at one point (at this point RS becomes WS and WS becomes RS).





Creative Commons License
This work by Knitting and so on is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.

Two german versions of these have been written by Renate Schattschneider:
Eine deutsche Version von diesen Handschuhen wurde von Renate Schattschneider erstellt:

Techniques
 A knitter who wants to knit these mitts should know the following techniques:
  • k1, yo, k1 into the same stitch  and p1, yo, p1 into the same stitch (i.e. double increases)
  • Cable cast-on midwork: As shown in this video.
  • Three-needle bind-off – as shown here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpJUrCX52DU
  • Grafting: stockinette & garter stitch.
  • How to knit a circle – since the effect is done with circle increases and decreases, it’s helpful if the general idea is known: In general a circle is knitted as follows:
    CO8 and join in round
    Round 1 and all odd numbered rounds: k
    Round 2: *k1 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 2nd stitch is doubled) (-> 16 sts)
    Round 4: * k2 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 3rd stitch is doubled)(-> 24 sts)
    Round 6: * k3 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 4th stitch is doubled) (-> 32 sts)
    Round 8: * k4 mk1 repeat from * (i.e. every 5th stitch is doubled) (-> 40 sts)
    … The formula should clear by now, i.e. that you increase by 8 stitches every other row. It also means that the distance between the "doubled" stitches increases by one in each of the increase-rounds. The same formula will be used when constructing the mitts - increasing around the thumbs and decreasing at the lower wrist part. If you do the increases always at the same spot a pattern (maybe even corners) will become visible; to achieve a more circular look I started the increases at a randomized stitch in each increase row.
  • Picking-up a selvage stitch and joining it at right angles to your knitting (similar to entrelac knitting): at the end of the WS row wyif a stitch is picked up from the side. After turning the work, this stitch is knitted together with the first stitch of the RS row. A slightly different way of doing it is shown here - ending up with the same result, i.e. joining the last stitch with a "stitch" picked up from the edge. Please note, that in case of these mitts the join is not side-to-side, but side-to-cast-on-row
  • Furthermore, you should be comfortable with the idea to “smooth out” certain differences in stitch counts. It's no big deal if there is one stitch too many - you can always fix it in the next row by decreasing one.
The picture on the right shows where the techniques are used - referring also to the work steps as described in the instructions.


Non-Standard Abbreviations
  • kyok: k1, leave on needle, yo and knit again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1
  • pyop: p1, leave on needle, yo and purl again, all in the same stitch, i.e. make 3 stitches from 1

Materials
  • 35 grams of fingering weight yarn
  • a set of 3mm dpns and a 3mm circular needle – I changed needles throughout the project
  • 2 stitch markers
  • tapestry needle (for kitchener stitch and to weave in ends)

Instructions

The picture on the left illustrates how your knitting should look after completing some of the steps.

First Mitt

Thumb
Step 1: CO18
Step 2: Knit 8 rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Step 3: Knit one round as follows: “k1, p1, k1, pyop, k1, p1, repeat from *  (there should be 24 stitches on your needles)
Step 4: Knit 5 more rounds of k1, p1-ribbing
Only the thumb (steps 1 to 4) is knitted in the round, after that everything else is knitted back and forth in rows (steps 5 and following).

Step 5:
The stitch you're at right now will be called “starting point” during this step.
Row 1 (RS): k20 place marker (“marker 1”) k4, cast on 4 stitches (with cable cast on), place marker (“marker 2”), cast on 70 stitches
Row 2 (WS): k back to starting point; pick up and knit one or two stitches from gap between the  last stitch and the recently cast-on stitches; wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the first of the recently cast-on stitches (just as you’d do for entrelac).
Now the circle increases and decreases are started: there will be increases up to marker 1, plain knitting between the two markers, and decrease from marker 2 to the end of row.
Row 3 (RS): k2tog (the stitch you just picked up and the first stitch of the row), *k2 kfb repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k8 repeat from ** to end
Row 4 and all other even rows until the next step (WS): k to starting point, wyif pick up one stitch from the lower edge of the cable cast on
Row 5 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k1 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k4 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 7 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), *k3 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k7 ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 9 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 11 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k4 kfb k2 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k4 repeat from ** to end
Row 13 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k1 kfb k6 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k3 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 15 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k7 kfb k1 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k3 repeat from ** to end
Row 17 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k2 kfb k7 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** k1 ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 19 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k5 kfb k5 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk k1 repeat from ** to end
Row 21 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), * k8 kfb k3 repeat from * until marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end
Row 23 (RS): k2tog (picked-up stitch and first stitch of new row), k to marker 1, k to marker 2, ** ssk repeat from ** to end

Step 6:
There should now be 3 stitches between marker 2 and the end – adding up to 11 together with the stitches from between the markers – these 11 stitches will be on one needle for the three-needle bind-off. With another needle pick-up 11 stitches from the edge, do a three-needle bind-off over these 11 stitches. Make sure the bind-off is done from the WS. Remove the markers.
If the stitch number doesn’t match exactly, move one stitch from one needle to the other, or use one stitch from the other side of marker 1.
After the three needle bind off, knit back to starting point counting the stitches. There should be 93 stitches.


Step 7: First Set of short Short-Rows to widen the wrists
Place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (RS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.
(The stitches you did before the BO will not be knitted until they are grafted during part 10 - you can leave them on your needles (especially if you're using long circulars) or you can put them on a stitch holder. As you can see from the photos, I just left them where they were.)

Step 8: Second Set of Short Rows to widen the wrists
Still on the RS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9: Widen the mitt
You now knit several rows of garter stitch until the mitt is wide enough to fit your hands, i.e.
Row 1 (WS): sl1 k
Row 2 (RS): sl1 k
Row 3 (WS): sl1 k
While you're knitting the first rows during step 9 count your stitches and compare it with the stitch number on the other side (i.e. the ones you left after step 7), if the numbers are not equal, increase of decrease to get an equal number of stitches (decreases are best done somewhere close to the marker).
Repeat rows  2 and 3 six more times (or until the mitt fits).

Step 10: Graft sides together
Cut yarn leaving a tail of about 1 meter. With tapestry needle graft sides together in garter stitch.


Second Mitt

The instructions for the second mitt are similar to the first one. Except that at one point, the mitt is turned inside out in order to mirror-invert the curves. Only the differences to the first mitt are listed here.

Knit Steps 1 through 5 as described for the Left Hand mitts except the steps listed below.


Step 3: Knit one round as follows: * k1, p1, kyok,  p1, k1, p1 repeat from *


Step 6:
Turn mitt inside out. Everything on your mitt that was RS is now WS (and vice versa). Make sure to do the three-needle bind off from the NEW WS.

Step 7:
The first short rows will be added at the opposite side, i.e.place marker and pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Row 1 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (RS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (WS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (RS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (WS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (RS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 7 (WS): sl1, k to marker, sm, k2tog, k26, BO24, k34 (you should now be at the end of your row (i.e. no more stitches left to knit). Do NOT turn your work.

Step 8:
Here also the sides are mirror inverted (compared to the first mitt), i.e.

Still on the WS, place marker, pick up and knit 24 sts (1 st in the gap between the last stitch and the lower edge of the cable CO, and 23 sts along the cable CO edge).
Now you mirror the rows you did during step 7, i.e.
Row 1 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k3, w+t
Row 2 (WS): k2, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 3 (RS): sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k4, w+t
Row 4 (WS): k3, k2tog, sm, k to end
Row 5 (RS):  sl1, k to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, sm, ssk, k5, w+t
Row 6 (WS): k4, k2tog, sm, k to end

Step 9:
Knit the same number of garter stitch rows you knitted for the first mitt.

Step 10:
Graft in stockinette stitch.

Kommentare:

  1. Die sind wirklich total genial gemacht! Und diese Blautöne sind wunderschön *___*

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    1. Danke. Das war Sockengarn von Aldi (vom letzten Jahr), das ich eher zufällig verwendet habe :)

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  2. Gibt's die Anleitung auch in Deutsch ?
    Die Stulpen sind genial. Doch leider kann ich die Anleitung in Englisch nicht nacharbeiten.
    LG Bianka

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    1. Liebe Bianka,
      nein, leider nicht. Im Normalfall schreibe ich die Anleitungen nur auf Englisch. Tut mir leid.
      Lieber Gruss
      SR

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    2. Hallo Bianka,
      Renate Schattschneider (siehe zwei Kommentare weiter unten) hat eine Anleitung auf deutsch für 6-fach Sockenwolle geschrieben: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/alle-8-ung
      Lieber Gruss und schöne Ostern
      SR

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  3. Hey,

    die Stulpen sind sehr schön. Darf ich die Anleitung übersetzen und dann weiter geben?

    Liebe Grüße,
    Chrissy

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    1. Hallo Chrissy,

      da die Anleitung unter einer „Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License“ veröffentlicht ist, darfst du sie gerne übersetzen und – unter den gleichen Bedingungen wie die Originalanleitung – weitergeben – d.h. für nicht-kommerzielle Weiternutzung ist sie freigegeben.

      Noch toller wäre es allerdings, wenn die Anleitung dann auch auf deutsch irgendwo veröffentlicht würde und ich darauf verlinken könnte (wenn sich schon jemand die Mühe gemacht hat) - natürlich mit „Credits“, wer übersetzt hat …

      Lieber Gruss
      SR

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    2. Hallo Chrissy,
      es gibt mittlerweile eine deutsche Anleitung, die von Renate Schattschneider erstellt wurde. Du findest sie hier: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/8-ern-wasser
      Lieber Gruss
      SR

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  4. Hallo SR,
    Erst einmal ein frohes Osterfest.
    Und ich war so frei und habe deine Antwort auf den vorherigen Kommentar zum Anlass genommen, selbst eine vereinfachte Anleitung für sechsfach Sockenwolle oder vergleichbare Garnstärke zu schreiben, um Deiner Anleitung nahe zu kommen.
    Du findest sie hier bei ravelry: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/alle-8-ung
    Ich hoffe dass es OK ist, falls unerwünscht lösche ich sie natürlich..
    Und gerne würde ich Deine Anleitung auch für vierfach Sockenwolle über setzen.
    Lieber Gruß, Renate

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    1. Hallo Renate,
      super, danke. Ich habe die Anleitung oben im Post verlinkt.
      Lieber Gruss und schöne Ostern
      Susanne

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  5. Hallo Susanne,
    Die Anleitung für 4-fach Sockenwolle ist nun auch fertig:
    http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/8-ern-wasser
    Lieber Gruß,
    Renate

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    1. Hallo Renate,
      vielen Dank, ich habe sie auch noch oben im Post verlinkt (und auf der Ravelry-Seite). Merci vielmal!
      Liebe Grüsse
      Susanne

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